Exploring the Island

Day Four.
We were up early again and drinking coffee on the balcony when we saw whales off the coast. Some were visible with their backs just peeking above the surface and others were tossing spray into the air with their bursting exhale. And then now and then we would see one breach the water and rise up into the air, sometimes appearing to stand straight up and sometimes flipping to one side, creating an enormous splash. It was amazing to see and especially from our balcony. I had been whale watching before off the coast of Baja, but these whales were more active and seemed to relish the surface breaches and showing off. There were dozens and dozens of humpback whales spread out in the channel between Maui and Molokai.
I made an omelet with with local eggs that cost $4/dozen and tossed in some other local veggies I had picked up at the natural food store. It was still early in the morning when we set out along the coast toward 'Iao Valley State Park, which is on the east side of the island and gets a lot more rain than the west side (where we were staying). Its an extremely lush valley with a dense tropical feel. Verdant peaks rise up quickly on three sides and after a while, I began to get the sense of being on the edge of a collapsed caldera. Although I'm not exactly sure that's what the park is, that is the definite feel it exudes. Its bright and hidden and beautiful with walkways that pass tranquil streams and huge overgrown trees. Its one of the gems of the island and was apparently so popular with Hawaiian royalty that it was off limits to commoners. There weren't any trails that led off into the mountainside, which was sort of a shame because I am sure it would have been amazing to trek up and down the walls of the caldera. The park was also smaller than I thought and so we saw all of it in less than an hour.
We headed back to the west side and stopped by the harbor to see about booking space to go snorkeling at Molokini the next day. We found what we were looking for and were set for a trip early the next morning. So we headed south towards to Kihei and pulled over at a beach where we could see whales very close to the beach. It wasn't very crowded, with just a few people fishing, a family playing in the water with two very happy dogs and a handful of joggers. Michael and I ate a makeshift lunch on the beach, then headed south to a recommended snorkeling area near Makena. We had some trouble finding the spot, then had trouble finding parking. It was Sunday and everyone was at the beach. We set our stuff down and went out looking for a good spot. The water was great and there were a few people snorkeling, but we didn't really see anything fascinating. More fish and rocks, and with the current a little stronger than up at Kapalua. We lay out on the beach for awhile and then decided to find shaved ice and escape from the mid-afternoon heat. In Kihei, we found a great place with dozens of flavors to choose from and also had locally made ice cream. We walked around some of the nearby shops but didn't buy anything. By the time we made it back to the hotel, I was exhausted from the day and we lounged around. I had lots of reading to catch up on and a bag full of crossword puzzles to tackle.
Day Five.
We were up at 530. We need to be to the harbor and checked in the snorkel tour at 615. Everyone was standing outside the office for the Pacific Whale Foundation (http://www.pacificwhale.org) waiting for instructions to get on the boat and head to Molokini. The sun was just starting to rise and a woman went over the details and plans for the day. Its a five hour trip and we would go to Molokini and then to snorkel at a second sight, which would most likely be Turtle Town. At this point I was extremely excited at the thought of swimming with giant green sea turtles. We were herded to the boat and everyone was given snorkel gear (if needed) and they even had goggles with prescription lenses for those who wore glasses. I was wearing my contacts so I was fine, but Michael was happy that he could make use of the extra-strength goggles. It was about 45 minutes to Molokini, which is a crescent shaped island, half submerged. It looks like a small collapsed volcano, about a half mile wide with one side sticking above the water. Inside the crescent the water is about 100-150 feet deep and extremely clear. The current runs right into Molokini, so the constant rush of water created the shape. The opposite side of the crescent is a sheer drop down into the deep. You can't go outside of the crescent without training because of the constant current of about 5-6 MPH that will sweep you south to Tahiti. Getting off the boat into the water, you can use the stairs, jump, or take the short five foot slide. I elected for the slide and splashed into the water. It was amazingly clear and coral was dotted along the crater floor down below. It was about 8 in the morning and then sun was still low on the horizon but it was bright and was sure to keep everything well lit. Along the part of the island that is above sea, the coral rises abruptly from about 50 feet and we were advised to keep at least 30 feet away in case of large sudden swells. They even had folks on kayaks to keep an eye on everyone. And if you got to close to the wall or too far away, they herded you back. I didn't see much other than lots of different fish, all with bright colors and all pretty curious. We even saw the Hawaii state fish, which is much shorter looking than its name would imply: Humuhumukununukuapua'a. It has great black and yellow markings with large eyes that sit high on its oval shaped body.
After Molokini, we headed over toward Makena Bay, where we were the day before. The sun was high at this point and we head great views of whales off in the distance. I forgot to mention that while we were headed to Molokini from the harbor, they came around to everyone offering fruit, muffins, bagels, coffee and juice; I liked this part. Off Makena Bay, we stopped at Turtle Town and I again slid into the water in another brilliantly clear area where I was dying to see a turtle. I didn't have to wait long as one about three feet big swam gently nearby. The turtle was a shiny green with a perfectly shaped shell that looked a bit mossy. The flippers were long and twisted gently to help propel them along effortlessly into the distance. Everyone was crowding about at this point to see the turtle and swim alongside. We continued swimming along some underwater lava fingers that jutted out from the shoreline. One had two holes that created an undersea tunnel. It was at least 30 feet down and whenever I swam down from the surface the pressure quickly weighed on my head. I didn't think I could swim into the tunnel but I did want to see what it looked like from different angles. Another turtle passed by. It was further away and didn't want to stick around for very long. Michael and I swam over to the other lava finger to where it stuck above the waves at certain points. Schools of small blue fish were swishing about in the current that pushed by every now and then. I didn't see any sharks, nor octopus, which was a little disappointing, but then I would rather have seen the turtles anyway. One time when I was snorkeling in Australia, I saw several large manta ray over six feet across glide below me. They were amazing to see, but not as interactive as the turtles.
And then before I knew it, it was time to head back. At this point I was back near the undersea tunnel and I saw an even larger turtle who was probably at least four feet big and probably about 200 pounds rise up from the tunnel. There were only four other snorkelers nearby and we all seemed to freeze where we were. The turtle gazed about non-chalantly and slowly rose to the surface. One guy had a camera with him and dove down below to snap a few shots. The turtle bobbed on the surface for a few second and then looked down below. While it seemed to stare at each one of us, it then glided underwater slowly toward me. Those large flippers propelling in slowly and effortlessly toward me. I'm not sure how close it was, or if it was even headed to me, but I swam to the side just in case. And then it turned and headed back to the underwater tunnel. I was still staring at it swim away when I snapped out of the trance I felt I was in. My breathing had slowed and I felt calm and so comfortable. It was an enchanting experience, whether the turtle was even aware of me or not, I was certainly aware of it and happy to have connected with it, if even for just a second or two.
Back on the boat, we were served lunch and everyone talked about how much fun they were having and what they had seen. Headed back to marina, we saw more whales off in the distance and then they eventually came closer. The guide started talking about whales and listing facts that drew all the kids around as she spoke. I headed to bar since it was open and all drinks were complimentary. Of course, mai tais were overflowing, but they also had Bikini Blonde Lager, which is locally brewed on Maui. When the guide asked where the whales go in the winter, several kids shouted Alaska. Without missing a beat, the guide said, "That's right, they go all the way back to Nebraska." We all laughed and Michael pointed out that Nebraska is always a good punch line for a joke.
Back at the marina, it felt so much later than 1230. But then we had been up for seven hours and had done so much so early in the day. Back at the hotel, I spent more time sitting on the balcony reading and staring out at sea. I'd also become hooked on playing solitaire on my iPod. I went for a short swim and snorkel in the water just outside our hotel and was done when I noticed a cut on my big toe. It was from the fins I had been wearing and although I had felt them wearing on me, I didn't know they were cutting me. After that, I showered, had a drink for sunset and relaxed the rest of the night.